Thu. Nov 7th, 2024

Is the Dog & Partridge worth a lunch trip?

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In March 2024, Greene King pub the Dog & Partridge closed for three weeks to refurbish both its drinking and dining areas and its guest accommodation. The result? An incredibly beautiful pub, with seating spread across various rooms, a seriously cosy vibe that’s perfect for this colder weather, and a beautiful garden with views of the towering chimneys of the Greene King brewery just around the corner.
 

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Bar

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Interior 3

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Interior 2

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Garden 1

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Garden 2

 
The timber-framed building itself dates back to the 17th century – and if you turn your gaze up to the roof you’ll see its weather vane which has sadly lost its dog over the years, but the partridge still remains.
 

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Exterior

 
Slightly away from the hustle and hustle of Bury St Edmunds town centre, the pub was quiet on a weekday lunchtime, even during October half term. We were there for a spot of lunch while showing my dad around our home town – and even in late October, it was the festive menu that was on offer.

That’s not to say there were only Christmas-themed dishes to choose from. There were classics like a steak & ale pie, fish and chips and even chicken Kyiv (a guilty pleasure of mine). There were sharing plates and sandwiches, as well as a selection of burgers – and there are vegetarian and vegan options clearly marked on the menu.

We sat near the front of the pub, the ancient bowed windows darkening every so often as a lorry thundered past, adding to the place’s vintage feel.

Rather than go for the relatively standard kids’ menu (mostly “things with chips”), my six-year-old went for the decidedly non-vintage battered halloumi starter (£6.50). The menu described it as served with a peri peri mayo and a red chilli and spring onion garnish – we asked them to hold the red chilli for his young palate!

He was pretty amazed at the generosity of the portion when it arrived: six crispy, golden slabs of the cheese, all drizzled with peri peri mayo and sprinkled with spring onion. They’d kindly left off the red chilli as requested.

He’s becoming quite the battered halloumi aficionado, and uses the Hendo’s version (his favourite) as a benchmark. The Dog & Partridge version, he said, was equally good – quite the compliment. Having tasted a little myself to confirm, I’d agree. The flavourful batter had a lovely crunch and the cheese itself was delicious. The peri peri mayo, though, was incredibly fiery – even for us adults – and I (and the child) would have preferred it served on the side.
 

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Battered Halloumi

 
Across the table, the vintage Cheddar and bacon burger (£13.75) was declared delicious, although I was told it could have done with a little more cheese.

The remaining two of us were drawn to the sound of the festive duck hash (£16.75), highlighted on the menu as one of their festive dishes. It promised a slow-cooked confit duck leg, crispy cubed potatoes, smoked bacon and sprouts, all topped with a fried egg and an orange & blackcurrant dressing.

While it sounded incredible, the dish itself was a little hit and miss.
 

Dog and Partridge, Bury St Edmunds - Festive Duck Hash

 
I had no complaints about the duck itself, which was beautifully cooked, full of flavour and fell easily from the bone. The fried egg had the runny yolk that was promised on the menu description. The sprouts and bacon definitely gave it a festive feel.

The dressing had a great balance between sweet and sharp…but the potatoes let the whole thing down. Not only were they underseasoned, they were burnt rather than crispy and tasted as though they’d been overcooked the day before.

But, you know what? We’re already talking about heading back again. The Dog & Partridge really is a beautifully decorated pub with a cosy feel, and the garden is a bonus – especially in the town centre. The staff were friendly, the drinks selection was decent and the menu was varied. Despite those potatoes, I’m more than happy to give the place another go.
 

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