Goldbrick House, Park Street: Review

I’ve been in Bristol since August 2009, and every working day since then, I’ve passed Goldbrick House on my way to and from work. Despite that – and despite several recommendations – I still hadn’t made it in for food (but have visited for drinks) until last week, when a friend booked us in for a meal using the restaurant’s January offer of 50% off the total food bill…

Goldbrick disorientates me slightly. I can’t think of a single other restaurant whose website features a floor plan due to the sheer number of individual dining/drinking areas, but this just adds to the venue’s charm. Our evening took place in the Loft: perhaps unsurprisingly situated at the very top of the restaurant, with views over the terrace and the city.

Seeing as we were there with our 50% off voucher, it would have been rude not to go for three courses. Unless it were a special occasion, I don’t think I would have done so if the meal had been full price: at £5-£7 for starters, £13-£20 for mains and around the £5 mark for desserts, it’s not somewhere that most would see as an everyday-dining venue.

“Pig in a pot” (£6.95) was first on my list. I’d been told before my visit that I shouldn’t expect much in terms of portion sizes, but I was more than happy with my ramekin of rich, pressed pork belly, served with two small slices of wholemeal toast and a pot of sweet yet tangy Weston’s cider chutney.

Bizarrely for me, I opted for a vegetarian main (one of three on the menu) of Goldbrick cauliflower cheese (£14.95). As soon as the plate was brought to the table, I could smell the Vacherin du Mont D’Or that had been used in a cauliflower and artichoke cannelloni – tasty, but the pasta possibly a little too thick for my liking. This was served with a trio of cauliflower, namely a smooth cauliflower puree, deep fried battered florets, and smaller, plain florets of cauliflower and romanesco. Good to see a little more creativity in a vegetarian main than most restaurants normally achieve.

The Lamb Wellington (£18.95) was enjoyed by one member of our party – it appeared more rare than medium-rare, as it was described on the menu, but this suited her preference. One disappointment was the fish pie (£13.50), which was served as a deconstructed version of the traditional dish with a potato cake on top, and was deemed a little dry. Nothing but praise, however, for the herb gnocchi with chestnut mushrooms, spinach and Parmesan (£5.95 as a starter, £11.95 as a main), which prompted a lot of positive noises from the two who chose to order it.

Goldbrick House proved to be another place where I avoided the cheeseboard, purely because it didn’t seem particularly exciting. While my three fellow diners all opted for the chocolate and hazelnut brownie with vanilla ice cream (£4.95), I was swayed by the chocolate, raisin and walnut cake (£5.25). The cake itself was deliciously moist, dense and rich – less of a cake and more of a tart in my book – and a portion so large that I struggled to finish it. The salted caramel sauce drizzled on the side of the plate ensured that the dessert wasn’t overly sweet, but I wasn’t too sure about the toasted oat ice cream that also accompanied the dish: “cold porridge” was how it was described by one of my friends.

A very reasonably-priced meal with the voucher, a great atmosphere, attentive service and fantastic company meant that we had an enjoyable evening at Goldbrick. It’s also worth checking out the restaurant’s set menu, which – at £21 for two courses or £26 for three – appears to be great value for money.

A few elements of the food did let us down on the night, but I’d definitely head back for a second visit…

Goldbrick House

Website: http://www.goldbrickhouse.co.uk

Address: 69 Park Street, Bristol BS1 5PB

Telephone: 0117 9452 664

Find Goldbrick House on the Bristol Bites Directory…