When Italian restaurant Olio announced their takeover of The Generals Arms in Little Baddow, Essex, villagers were concerned. As a popular spot for a catch-up over a pint (beside the crackling fireplace in winter), would it still have the same community feel once the refurb was complete…?
Fortunately, the team decided to keep the bar area intact: still serving a range of draught beers and other drinks in a dedicated area for pub-goers.
More exciting for my son is the fact that there’s a brand new play structure in the pub’s garden (sadly it was too icy to test it properly when we visited).
We were there for a family meal – my first since the switch from pub to Italian restaurant. Having heard great things about Olio’s other Essex venues (as well as plenty of positives about their Little Baddow venture from my dad), I was excited.
The team has completely transformed the restaurant area. It’s now a bright, airy and smart space that’s the perfect combination of casual and stylish.
Olio on the Ridge won ‘highly commended’ in the ‘Best Family Restaurant’ category at the 2024 Essex Life Food & Drink Awards – and not just for the playground. Rather than offer a separate kids’ menu, the team instead allow children to order smaller portions of dishes from the main menu, offering a far greater choice than they would otherwise have. Pizzas, though, are available on request, too.
I started my lunch with the burrata e pesche (£14): a deliciously creamy and fresh-flavoured ball of burrata served on top of EVO and raspberry syrup-drizzled grilled peach slices. A couple of fingers of herby bread and a scattering of crushed walnuts completed the dish, which definitely gave off summer vibes.
Across the table, the mound of calamari (£12) was beautifully crisp, served with a punchy garlic mayonnaise.
If you’re not a veal fan, look away now. Because I am – and I’m definitely glad I ordered the saltimbocca alla Romana (£26). The thinly sliced veal steaks were super tender, the addition of sage and white wine imparting a lovely rich flavour. Topped with wafer-thin Parma ham and melted mozzarella, they were served alongside what the menu claimed were tournee potatoes, but in reality, they were just boiled potato chunks. They were absolutely fine, but I’d have preferred a side with which that delicious sauce could be mopped up more easily.
The child loved his pizza. He chose the ‘classic’ combination of pepperoni and capers as his toppings (he’s a huge caper fan) and gave it a 9/10. I’d agree with him: the toppings were plentiful, the base was beautifully cooked and the flavours were delicious. It was a huge pizza for a six-year-old, so we took the rest home.
I didn’t really need a dessert, but I’m notoriously bad at saying no to a tiramisu when it’s on the menu. I can’t remember the last time I had one as light and airy as the Olio version (£8.50): plenty of whipped mascarpone cream sandwiched between coffee and liqueur-soaked savoiardi biscuits, the whole thing dusted with cocoa powder.
It was so good that the child, supposedly “full” after his pizza, demolished half of it for me.
Special mention too to manager David who was everything a manager should be: friendly, polite, attentive and great with our son, addressing him by name throughout the entire meal. I can absolutely see where that ‘highly commended’ award came from.