Please note: I was invited in to try the brunch menu at Lucky Strike, but this in no way impacted on my opinion. I was not obliged to write a positive review, and the venue did not see this review before it was put up on the site.
Bedminster’s East Street hasn’t historically been a dazzling destination road. When I lived on the harbourside I’d often venture down that way to buy meat from Kelvins Butchers or pop into Grounded for a bite to eat or a coffee with my (then pre-school) son…but I’d always avoid walking that way in the evenings, where possible.
Now, though, things are changing. The former Argos site is being converted into flats, with hospitality and retail spaces below – and there are further residential developments taking place around the area.
Tom Montgomery, owner of cafe Lucky Strike, which opened in March, admits that the area is challenging. Directly opposite the old Argos site, sandwiched in between Kelvins and a massage parlour, his “modern take on a British cafe and bistro” is busy in the evenings but I was the only diner on the day I visited for brunch. Other businesses on East Street, he says, are also struggling with daytime trade.
However, he remains upbeat about the prospects for his first venture, which he opened after working for big names like BAO and Brat in London, before moving to Bristol where he met Lucky Strike chef Matt Nicholson when the pair worked together at Souk Kitchen.
Lucky Strike is a place founded on nostalgia and retro charm, from the parquet flooring and minimalist design inside to the sepia tones of their beautiful Instagram feed. That theme also carries through to the menu, with the brunch offering featuring dishes like Lucky Hoops on toast, grapefruit with demerara, and potted mackerel.
Even the Kilner jar of sugar that was brought to my table with my deliciously rich latte (they use locally-roasted coffee) was adorned with a label from a retro label printer, while the small, laminated menu also harked back to the greasy spoons of yore.
After being asked whether I had any allergies and being brought a jug of tap water without needing to request it, I placed an order for two dishes from the brunch menu which, to me, were priced pretty low for what they were.
The thinly sliced ham in the ham, egg & duck fat potatoes (£7.50), its rich sweetness punctuated by the occasional pocket of unctuous fat, comes from Kelvins Butchers next door, and the egg was marginally oversalted but had no runny white and the perfect dippy yolk. The real star of the show, though, was that wedge of duck fat potatoes: crisp and crunchy on the outside (with an almost burnt – in a good way – flavour in places), and melt-in-the mouth soft in the middle. The occasional slivers of sweet shallot were a delicious discovery, too.
The almond and apricot granola with cherry compote (£5) shows that it really is possible to elevate a dish that seems simple to something far more exciting. A bowl of thin natural yoghurt was adorned with three different toppings. On the left, lovely big clusters of the granola, chewy in places and crunchy in others, nicely spiced with plenty of toasted almond slivers and tangy dried apricot chunks. In the middle, a sprinkling of caramelised seeds which offered a different texture and a greater sweetness than the granola, with the occasional hint of salt coming through. On the right, a cherry compote that was sweet and tart at the same time, spiked with plenty of cinnamon which I wasn’t expecting. Individually, the flavours of the toppings were beautiful – together, they worked well.
Considering the local provenance of many of the ingredients, the thought that’s gone into the dishes and the prices charged by Lucky Strike’s peers, their menu is incredible value for money. There were a few things, though, that I reckon would make the place even better still.
With highchairs available – as well as crayons and colouring sheets for kids – Lucky Strike caters in some ways for parents with young children…however, there’s no dedicated kids’ menu. It’s something, said Tom when I mentioned it, that he’s considering introducing, so watch this space.
Secondly, while there’s plenty of variety on the brunch menu, it would be great to see a few more vegetable-based sides available to order alongside the very meat and carb-heavy dishes. While there’s currently a choice of two – new potatoes with wild garlic butter plus a green salad from Hugo’s down the road (priced at £4.50, which seems high compared with other menu items) – I’d personally like to see a few more options to choose from.
That said, though, I was impressed with what I tried, and with the whole ethos behind the place. I’m keen to go back to try their equally nostalgic dinner menu down the line – as well as their desserts and cakes which I’m sure are incredible, based on the smells coming from the kitchen when I arrived. Providing they can draw in the daytime trade as well as staying busy in the evenings, I’m sure that Lucky Strike will become a real Bristol success story.